Indeed, words like bacon, lobster and truffle are sprinkled like confetti throughout chef Larry Stewart’s seasonal menu of French and Italian classics updated with bold, new-world flavors.

You can sit at the chef’s table in the kitchen for front-row action and a set five-course menu, or slip into a curved banquet and peruse the dinner menu and 19-page wine list.

Larry’s Wine Spectator award-winning list is symbolic of his more-is- more approach.

See, for example, his posh take on a cherished prairie favorite: perogies.

His are decadent, stuffed with truffled potatoes and fried in butter until golden, arrive with an entourage of grainy mustard-cream sauce, smoked salmon, and (why hold back now?) salmon caviar.

For dessert, a large wedge of moist and comforting gingerbread cake so good it’s been on the menu since day one.

It, too, has an entourage: rhubarb saskatoon compote, warm caramel sauce and mango ice cream.

Yes, it’s all a bit rich (as is the crowd), but this is, after all, Edmonton fine dining at its best.