Indeed, words like bacon, lobster and truffle are sprinkled like confetti throughout chef Larry Stewart’s seasonal menu of French and Italian classics updated with bold, new-world flavors.
You can sit at the chef’s table in the kitchen for front-row action and a set five-course menu, or slip into a curved banquet and peruse the dinner menu and 19-page wine list.
Larry’s Wine Spectator award-winning list is symbolic of his more-is- more approach.
See, for example, his posh take on a cherished prairie favorite: perogies.
His are decadent, stuffed with truffled potatoes and fried in butter until golden, arrive with an entourage of grainy mustard-cream sauce, smoked salmon, and (why hold back now?) salmon caviar.
For dessert, a large wedge of moist and comforting gingerbread cake so good it’s been on the menu since day one.
It, too, has an entourage: rhubarb saskatoon compote, warm caramel sauce and mango ice cream.
Yes, it’s all a bit rich (as is the crowd), but this is, after all, Edmonton fine dining at its best.